| Seat Belt
Working out the seatbelt.
I am going to make a bracket to have the pivot at the front |
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Department of the Interior.
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Templates are Good
Always start with a template
You may notice some writing on the cardboard. I NEVER trust my memory
in this scenario. If there is something I have to remember, I always
write it next to where the information is required.
Then lay it out at accurately as possible. Remember to allow for
the 1.6mm bends and DOUBLE and TRIPLE check all measurements. |
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Cutty Things
Wiss snips Lefts and Rights
Straight snips (Gilbo's)
Dremel with Cutting Grinding Tool
Nibblers |
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Some Tips
When using Gilbo's or Wiss snips NEVER close the snips all the way down or
you will dint the metal as you cut. The exception to this is when you
are cutting up to a corner. One finger (little finger) inside the
snips will allow you to open the blade in a continual movement as you cut.
Careful of small splinter that can form on the edge of the material.
It WILL be sharp. Always cut approximately 5mm to 8mm away from the
line first as a rough cut. Then do a final cut later. You will
end up with a better product with less marking from the snips.
The Dremel is a VERY handy tool. I used the cutting disk to make
holes where i needed them. First drilling out the corners and cutting
straight lines. However do this slowly. As you will cut through
the alloy, the alloy heats up and it will grab the cutting disk. It
then brakes it. I went through quite a few until i worked out to take
it SLOW.... |
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Marking out and Bendy Things
This is pretty much all I used for the marking out and bending of the
alloy. Except for a Pan brake for the long alloy bends Check out
below. |
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Bendy Tools
Home Made wide Pliers (thanks Dad)
Super Cheap vice Grips
Multiple shifters. Whateva Works. |
 
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Tunnel
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The tunnel produced it's own issues.
Multiple long bends at different longitudinal angles. So i couldn't
use a Pan brake for this job. I had to come up with a smaller style
bender.A couple of vice grips, 2 G Cramps, a piece of 25mm angle to bend
around and a piece of 25mm RHS for a backing. |
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A clear view of the bending operation. |
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For this longer bend a further vice grip was used to extend the bending
machine |
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Noice.....
:-)
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Cardboard for the template |
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Warning warning
Will Robinson. This IS to much material over the bar. Reduce
this by about 15mm for a much easier day. |
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You will need to anneal the alloy regularly to help get a nice smoooooth
bend. Use a Nico pen and then an LGP torch. When the nico
disappears the alloy is sufficiently annealed. NICE |
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Keep it well clamped to get a nice edge and bend. |
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Lots of annealing will help get those nasty bends out of the alloy and
ensure you don't get folds. |
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Getting There. |
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The roll bar brace is a real pain in the butt. Take your time and lots
of Annealing here. |
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Now for the scuttle. I with to bend the front and rear of the alloy
over the RHS. Not to hard as it's only 5mm or so and I didn't need to
anneal this at all. |
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Making the template. |
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Start Slow. with a block of hardwood and a hammer.
DON'T touch the aluminium with anything other than a soft face.
Timber or Rubber Mallet is good and very effective.
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Not very complicated tools. The timber is 20mm Ply, and isn't up to the
job. Some hard wood would be better. |
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Lots of clamping here and there. |
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Care with the fold that it doesn't kink. just work it around and it
will all be good. |
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In order to bend the curvy bit at the bottom of the
sides, I just used this very technical (not) approach.
With a bit (or a lot) of elbow grease it worked like a
charm. |
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HOW COOL IS THIS !!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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OK so time to workout the exhaust is a whole new
ballgame. I had a couple of goes with my original template until I got
it right. |
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And transferred to the side sheet. Beautiful.
Now the pipe did fowl the sheet so I had to form it a
little. |
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Here is the sheet with the formed dint to allow for
the exhaust pipe. |
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And this is what I used to form the dint in the side
sheet. |
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Starting to work on the other bits in the cabin
itself. I need to sort the dash now.. |
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