When cutting plate
use an appropriate blade. Very fine pitch teeth will do the trick.
When purchasing a JigSaw ensure it has a variable
trigger. I think I paid $20 for this and so far I have used it to cut
out the fibreglass floor of my boat and it is still powering.
Plate fitted and checks taken out. Next step is
welding them in.
And welded.
I also flipped the chassis and welded under
this plate.
That may have been over kill.
Make the templates first to ensure you have the correct
shape. Don't rely on the chassis being perfect as their may be a
little movement.
Of course their won't be but it pays to get this
perfectly accurate.
:-)
Next step is off to the one of the "Metal Supermarkets" or
some engineering workshops to see if they have off cuts that will suit.
Remember we are after 1.6mm Zinc Anneal for these sections.
This is the easiest and most accurate way I have found to
cut the 1.6 zinc anneal. I have used one of the very thin (less than
1mm) grinding blades and it eats the metal very accurately.
Just remember to have the Job itself under the timber guide and you can't
grind under your line.
The finished product.
Fitted and ready to go.
Welded and primed to prevent rust.
Fitting the firewalls.
Ensure the sheet is flush with the inside of the RHS.
Plates welded in and given a coat of primer to stop the
rust.
All plates in place. Now just the floor to do and the
plates for the engine mounts. I think everything else is aluminium
sheet.
Welding on the Floor.
1.6 Zincanneal.
Drink milk before you start as the welding process will vaporise the zinc
and make you really crook.
This is the front edge of the floor. You'll notice it
has been angled a bit. just to help slide over things if it is a
little low on the odd occasion.
Haven't finished it all yet. Still have to cap the
rear. however this is a nice view of how it is all coming along.
And one up the side.
And the rear of the floor sealed with strip of sheet cut and
welded to fit.
Here is the floor under the feet tacked into position.
I decided to use 1.6mm zinc anneal here as well. I wanted to
strengthen the chassis in this area and it is so easy to just weld it in.
Yes I'm sacrificing a little extra weight for ultimate strength. Ah
well. :-)
To weld the floor I have used a method called "Back Welding"
I think. Only an inch and a half at a time. One side of the
plate then move to the other side of the plate. Do and inch and a half
then back to the first side. You can avoid warping using this method
as it spreads the heat about the Sheet better. "Apparently"
If you are
unfamiliar with the technique it is worth looking up as I don't have a
ripple in the 1.6mm plate and I have full penetration.
So here are with the chassis floor welded in.
Now I just
need to flip the chassis and weld in the scuttle hoops. Getting closer
to the finished chassis.
